A Comprehensive Manual to Selecting the Proper Screen Printing Cloth

Table of Contents

The initial step to completing the screen printing process is selecting the right screen printing cloth. It is essential to note that the cloth that you will choose for the screen printing directly influences the number of inks you will utilize and how the finished garment will feel.

screen printing cloth

The phrase “screen printing cloth” can have two meanings. It can be the fabric you are printing on. Or it can be the mesh fabric in the screen. This guide will look at both. You will be getting the master-class knowledge to perfection.

You will learn:

  • Which fabrics are best for bright, long-lasting prints?
  • How the characteristics of fabric, such as weave and weight, can affect your design.
  • How to select the right screen mesh for your project.
  • How to deal with basic fabric-related printing issues.

Screen Printing Fabric Types: An Easy Reference

We will commence the presentation with a straightforward fabric reference. This guide will be a starting point for your decisions for the impending project.

Fabric Type Best For Pros Cons Our Rating (out of 5)
100% Cotton Generally used for t-shirts, hoodies, tote bags. Standard for newbies. Ink absorption at its best, vivid colors, breathable, and not expensive. If not pre-shrunk, it may shrink and wrinkle. ★★★★★
Linen/Bamboo Environmentally friendly clothes, tea towels, boutique items. Soft, sustainable, with a high absorbent capacity forming a soft-hand feel. Has a tendency to wrinkle, and is often more expensive. ★★★★☆
Polyester Sportwear, performance garments, jerseys. Tough, moisture-wicking, and prevents shrinking and stretching. Has a risk of dye migration and needs special inks with lower curing temps. ★★★☆☆
Nylon Jackets, bags, umbrellas, and specialty outerwear. Strong water-resistant and very durable. It is very hard to work with; a special adhesion promoter is needed. ★★☆☆☆
Cotton/Poly Blends Day-to-day t-shirts, sweatshirts, and versatile apparel. Softer than 100% cotton, less shrinking, good printability. Sometimes they can have a tendency for pilling or minor dye migration issues. ★★★★★
Tri-Blends Top quality, soft fashion t-shirts, and vintage prints. Very soft, drapes well, and unique heathered look. The thin material can be tricky; it requires a gentle touch and specific inks. ★★★★☆

Natural Fibers: The Best Option Available

Most of the screen printing jobs are typically done using natural fibers like 100% cotton. They are generally the best absorbents of ink and due to that provide darker and brighter colors.

Synthetic Fibers: Performance Advantages and Difficulties

One of the best things about synthetic fabrics like polyester is their top-notch performance. They are highly effective and versatile. But, they have their drawbacks too. They have a different way of absorbing the ink. The ink only sits atop the fabric, without clinging to it. Thus, it leads to problems like dye migration. This dye transfer occurs when the original color of the fabric is released into the moisture during curing and thus it bleeds into the ink. Finding the best fabrics for screen printing is often a matter of balancing natural fiber advantages against synthetic performance.

Blends: Superior Canopy Combination

Blending fabrics is an option that people go for these days. The 50/50 cotton/poly is the most suitable and cost-effective alternative. It gives the wearer the feel of cotton and the durability and shrinking resistance of polyester. This is the connecting point where the quality of clothes meets the technical performance. Tri-blends can be even softer and more premium since they add rayon to the mix.

More Than Just Fabric Type: How Material Characteristics Influence Your Print

More Than Just Fabric Type: How Material Characteristics Influence Your Print

The choice of “100% cotton” is not enough. Two cotton t-shirts may behave entirely differently in ink application. The knowledge of physical properties of screen printing cloth is paramount to the professionals.

Fabric Weave & Texture

The weave of a fabric affects the visual impression of print. The premium ringspun cotton t-shirt has a dense and smooth weave that is very tight. As a result, it creates perfect lines and vivid details.

In contrast, a simple canvas tote bag has a much coarser, rougher weave. Ink printed on this surface can appear “broken” or less sharp. This is so because ink is deposited within the braids of the fabric. For the best results, always mirror the smoothest surface your project will allow.

Fabric Weight (GSM)

GSM is an abbreviation for Grams per Square Meter which is the metric unit for measuring the mass and area of fabric. Thus, the heavier the fabric is the higher its GSM. A lightweight fashion tee might be around 140-150 GSM while a heavyweight hoodie can go up to 300+ GSM.

The use of lighter fabrics causes them to be more prone to ink bleeding through to the other side. You need to exercise a delicate touch with the squeegee. On the other hand, heavy fabrics, like hoodies, can soak more ink. This is why they are perfect for thick, intense prints. With techniques like puff screen printing, you can achieve stunning 3D effects on heavyweight garments. This works especially well with a dedicated puff print hoodie manufacturer.

Fabric Color

The process of printing on dark fabric is different from that of light-colored fabric. If you apply yellow ink directly to a black t-shirt, it would look dull and muddy. This is due to the fact that black fabric color shows through the ink.

We can mitigate this by printing a “white underbase” as a first step. This is a layer of white ink that is placed first. It acts like a primer. After that, we apply our colors onto the white after a quick “flash” cure. This allows the colors to appear bright and true to the originally intended color. The mastery of underbase is a prerequisite in the production of vibrant, durable prints that are so loved in screen printing.

Troubleshooting Common Collisions Due to Screen Printing Fabric

Even the perfect fabric can sometimes mess up. We have witnessed it all. Here are the most prevalent problems and our trusted solutions.

Problem: My ink is bleeding and the edges are fuzzy.

Solution: The three main contributing factors must be investigated: pressure, ink viscosity, and fabric thickness. Firstly, you can try less pressure and a faster pass with the squeegee. If that does not work, you might want to try a higher mesh count screen to apply less ink. Finally, the fabric could also be the reason for bleeding. A tighter weave or heavier GSM screen printing cloth will resist bleeding much better.

Problem: The print is cracking after one wash.

Troubleshooting Common Collisions Due to Screen Printing Fabric

Solution: This is typically an ink curing issue, not a fabric problem. Every ink has its own curing needs where it should be at a specific temperature for an amount of time to get the correct reaction that should solidify it. Whether it’s plastisol or water-based ink, proper curing is essential. If it’s under-cured, it would wash out. Review your ink manufacturer’s guidelines. To ensure full curing, use tools such as a heat gun with a temperature sensor or a conveyor dryer.

Problem: The colors on my polyester shirt look dull or discolored.

Solution: This is a problem of dye migration. During curing, heat causes the dye in polyester fabric to turn into gas. This gas then seeps into your ink and changes its color. The solution to that is the use of the particular inks that are designed for polyester. Usually, these are described as “low-bleed,” “poly white,” or “low-cure” inks that do the curing at lower temperatures in order not to activate the fabric dye.

The Other Screen Printing Cloth: What is the Screen Mesh?

The other “screen printing cloth” that we want to talk about is the polyester mesh that is stretched tightly across the screen frame. The fineness of this mesh is measured by mesh count. It directly impacts your print and must match your fabric and ink.

  • Lower Mesh Count (e.g., 86-110): This mesh has larger holes. More ink can pass through it. It is ideal for thick inks like a white underbase or specialty inks like glitter. It is also useful for printing on heavy, absorbent fabrics like sweatshirts and hoodies.

  • Standard Mesh Count (e.g., 110-160): This is the most standard and versatile application for most t-shirt printing. It offers a great balance between ink coverage and print detail. It is the great choice for simple designs on cotton and poly/cotton blends.

  • Higher Mesh Count (e.g., 200-305): This mesh has very fine holes. It lets a thin and controlled layer of ink go through. Use it for detailed graphics, halftone images, and to print thin inks on smooth surfaces like paper or premium, fine-weave cotton.

Fabric to Final Product: A Streamlined Printing Process

Once you’ve selected your fabric and screen, the process comes together. Here is a high-level overview of the key steps.

  1. Fabric Preparation: Pre-washing is a highly recommended step when preparing your garments. This takes off the chemical sizing that has come from manufacturing, which can cause a problem with ink adhesion. It also pre-shrinks the fabric so that your design doesn’t deform.
  2. Choose Your Screen: Depending on the details of your design and chosen material, select the most appropriate mesh count screen for the job.
  3. The Printing Pass: Apply your ink and use a squeegee with firm, consistent pressure. Push the ink through the mesh and onto the fabric. Good technique is key to a clean print.
  4. Curing is Crucial: Right after printing, cure the garment with heat. This step bonds the ink to the fabric at the molecular level, ensuring a permanent, wash-resistant print. For a more detailed walkthrough, this step-by-step guide to screen printing on fabric is an excellent resource.

Do It Yourself vs. Collaborate with Experts

DIY screen printing is an excellent approach, though it equally comes with a lot of complexities. It serves as a perfect platform for small batches and artistic projects. As the project requirements increase, it becomes apparent that consistency, speed, and equipment limitations may be obstacles you have to deal with.

If your project requires consistent quality across a large run, the best way to get through is by working with a professional. If you are looking at building a brand, it only makes sense to have professional help. At Clothing Manufacturer LTD, we deal in high-quality screen printing services that remove the hassles of the process for you.

We take care of the confusing aspects of fabric sourcing and printing. You can be focused on your designs. You can check out our capabilities to know more.

Do It Yourself vs. Collaborate with Experts

FAQ: Answers to Your Screen Printing Cloth Queries

1. Is it possible to screen print on 100% polyester?

Yes, it is doable but difficult for beginners. You will require special polyester inks (low-bleed). In addition, you should manage your curing temperature very carefully to avoid dye migration. This is a situation where the dye in the fabric seeps into the ink, changing the colors of the final product.

2. What is the easiest screen printing cloth for beginners to work with?

A 100% combed cotton t-shirt in a light color is most suitable. White, grey, or beige work well. It has a smooth surface and absorbs ink predictably. It is the perfect choice for avoiding the problems usually associated with synthetic materials.

3. Is it necessary to wash the screen printing cloth before screen printing?

Yes, it is highly recommended. New garments are treated with chemical “sizing” that can interfere with proper ink adhesion. Pre-washing removes this. It also pre-shrinks the fabric, meaning that the design will not be distorted after the customer’s first wash.

4. How is plastisol different from water-based ink for fabric?

Plastisol ink is PVC-based and opaque. It sits on top of the fabric, creating a vibrant, durable print you can feel. It’s generally easier for beginners to work with. Water-based ink soaks into the fabric fibers for a much softer, breathable feel, but it can be more challenging to get bright colors on dark fabrics without using a discharge agent.

5. Why are my prints on dark fabrics not bright?

You likely need to print an “underbase.” This is a foundational layer of white ink printed first. After that, it is “flash-cured” (partially dried with heat). You then print your colors on top of this white base. It serves like a blank canvas and allows for colors to be bright and opaque on dark screen printing cloth.

Founder and Author - Tesla Luo

Hi, I’m Tesla Luo, the founder of Clothing Manufacturer Ltd.
I entered the apparel manufacturing industry in 2016, and have focused solely on the behind-the-scenes of production: sourcing materials, developing collections, optimizing factory workflows and reacting to market trends. And throughout this 8 year journey, I developed a deep, insider perspective on what it takes to deliver quality and speed in the world of fast fashion today truly.

Building on that foundation of hands-on experience is why, when I started Clothing Manufacturer Ltd. in 2024, I did so deliberately. I wanted to build a streetwear manufacturer that could produce anything from small-batch capsule collections to massive retail orders, within a framework of creativity, consistency and operational rigor.

Well, every bit I post here is rooted in my struggles with stuff like tight timelines and changing style trends and production snafus and client comms. I write not with the notion of scholarly theory, but from the shop floor — solutions that work, sedimented in trial and error over years of practice, interplay and creativity.

Let’s turn your brand’s vision into garments that resonate—and last.

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